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If you’re daydreaming about a well-earned day at the shore, a trio of coastal Italian pours will quicken your desire to feel warm sand under your toes. All three wines, kissed by salty air blowing off the Tyrrhenian Sea, are crafted from a vivacious white variety that thrives near the ocean.
Like most wine grapes, Vermentino goes by a variety of names. On the island of Corsica, you’ll see it spelled Vermentinu, while in the French south, you might encounter it as Rolle. The grape’s monikers also vary wildly up and down Italy’s boot. In Piemonte, the grape is known as Favorita, while on the Italian Riviera, it’s called Pigato, derived from pigau, the Ligurian word meaning “spotted.” (The descriptor refers to dots that appear on grape skins as the berries ripen.) To upholders of tradition, it matters little that ampelographic science has determined Vermentino, Favorita, and Pigato to be genetically the same variety. Many growers insist that their regions’ cultivars — sculpted by time and terroir — are distinct, and should be regarded as such.
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A dream itinerary centered on the grape would have you start on the island of Sardinia, sail north across the Mar Ligure to the mainland, then follow the sun-dappled coast southeast toward Lazio. If you’re musically inclined, imagine the route as a bass clef, with Sardinia at the symbol’s bulbous center, Liguria at the top of the crescent, and Tarquinia on the tail swinging down toward Rome. Until you can take that bucket-list trip in person, trace the maritime journey by way of your glass.
All three bottles in this month’s tasting result from cool fermentations in stainless steel, an approach that preserves winsome aromatics and vivid flavors of citrus, white flowers, green herbs, and saline. The producers behind these wines undertake organic-in-practice agriculture and bring deep generational knowledge to cellar work. To achieve nuanced textures, the makers of the Sardinian and Lazio examples allow wine to spend time on the lees, while the Ligurian producer introduces a bit of skin contact into the process.
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Sip these vivacious pours and I’m sure you’ll agree: Vermentino is synonymous with deliciousness.
Sa Raja “Tarra Noa” Vermentino di Sardegna 2021 “Tarra Noa” is what speakers of the Gallurese dialect call the city of Olbia, in Sardinia’s northeast. That port city is a 20-minute drive from Sa Raja, the winery headed up by industry leader Mark Hartmann. Grapes harvested from 120-plus vine acres are crafted into a brilliant pour offering scents of crunchy nectarine, lemon, and gardenia petals, leading to a sea breeze-kissed palate of stone fruit, lemon pith, and green herbs. 14 percent ABV. Distributed by Ideal Wine & Spirits. High-teens to low-$20s. Retailers include: Berman’s Fine Wines & Spirits, Lexington; Social Wines, Cambridge.
Il Monticello “Groppolo” Colli di Luni Vermentino 2022 Brothers Alessandro and Davide Neri cultivate 35 acres of vines surrounding their family farm in Colli di Luni, the easternmost winegrowing region of Liguria. “Groppolo,” which translates to “bunch,” is pale in hue, but confidently coquettish, expressing cling peach and citrus blossoms. Its lime-and-lemon palate coalesces beguilingly around nectarine, sea-saltiness, and herbal notes. 12.5 percent ABV. Distributed by Arborway Imports. Mid-to-high-$20s. Retailers include: Marty’s Fine Wines, Newton; Georgie’s Wine Shop & Bar, Boston.
Muscari Tomajoli “Nethun” Lazio Vermentino 2021 In Tarquinia, beyond Lazio’s northern border, Marco Muscari Tomajoli carries on his father’s legacy, crafting excellent vermentino from 5 acres of vines that slope toward the sea. “Nethun,” which translates to “Neptune,” is lemony, fresh, and tinged with thyme on the nose. Its structured, polished palate conveys green apple and lemon, balanced by appetizing bitterness and a dash of sea salt. 13 percent ABV. Distributed by Mucci Imports. Mid-$20s. Retailers include: Inman Square Wine & Spirits, Cambridge; The Wine Bottega, Boston.
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Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com
Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com